Photo 1 - Unique Area Of Coastal Heath Beside The Solent

Highlights

• Former military training area with fascinating history, now largely left to nature
• Unique coastal heath habitat beside the Solent with good views to the Isle of Wight
• Includes a Site of Special Scientific Interest noted particularly for its unusual coastal flora
• Flourishing colonies of Grayling and good variety of common butterfly species
• Small colony of Green Hairstreak on Browndown North

Description

Browndown is a former military training area on both sides of the B3333 between Lee-on-Solent and Gosport. Browndown South (Photo 1 above), on the coastal side of the road, is a designated Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) particularly noted for its unusual variety of  coastal flora. Browndown North, on the inland side of the road, is a Site of Importance for Nature Conservation (SINC). From an overall nature perspective Browndown North is actually the more diverse (and includes an area of fen and reedbed), however in view of its true coastal location and stronger Grayling colony, I have chosen to concentrate here on Browndown South.

Browndown South, sometimes known as Browndown Ranges, consists of loose shingle beach (Photo 2) backed by a mosaic of heathland, stable shingle, rough grassland and scrub, bounded to the north by an embankment of shrubs and trees. The area was used by the military until a few years ago as a firing range and also as a proving ground for military hovercraft. At the eastern end there is still a military presence in the form of a TA centre and enclosed shooting range behind a high redbrick wall. Nowadays, Browndown South is more noted for its varied range of unusual flora which include Little Robin, Burnet Rose, Slender-flowered Thistle and Nottingham Catchfly and of course its colony of Grayling butterflies. Off the coast at low tide there are visible remnants of an ancient forest, submerged at the end of the last ice age.

 Photo 2 - View Eastwards Along The Shoreline With Shingle, Scrub And Rough Grass

Browndown South can be approached from either the east or the west, although I recommend access via its western end for a butterfly walk (see also the footnote at the bottom of the page about the eastern approach). Park at the pay and display car park on Marine Parade East (arrowed on this map) and make your way on foot towards the seashore. Turn left at the end of the MoD fence, keeping to the shore side of the fence and follow the path along the rear of the site, below the embankment. As you make the decent down the first section of this path, look ahead eastwards and you will see in the distance the redbrick structure of the current shooting range, which is your destination for the Grayling colony.

Follow the path east looking for other butterflies amongst the shrubs on the embankment and in the rough grass/scrub on the right. Depending on time of visit, species to look for include Meadow Brown, Gatekeeper, Small/Essex Skipper, Marbled White, Small Copper, Holly Blue, as well as Vanessids such as Red Admiral, Comma and Painted Lady. As one goes further east towards the shooting range wall,  areas of heather amongst the shingle and scrub become more evident on the coastal side of the path. The Grayling colony is directly in front of the high wall - photo 3 below shows the area which is also arrowed on this map. Grayling are typically on the wing here from the second week in July and through August. One could be forgiven for thinking the main need of these butterflies is to remain invisible, flying fast and low when disturbed only to settle again a few yards further on, using their perfect underside camouflage to ‘disappear’.

Photo 3 - Grayling Area In Front Of The High Wall Of The Shooting Range

The return can be made along the seashore, which is actually part of the long distance footpath called the Solent Way, or across the heath/scrub in the central area of the site, observing its unusual array of sea-shore flora. Browndown North is also worthy of a visit and is accessed via a gate on the other side of Marine Parade East (arrowed here). There is very limited off road parking beside the gate and it is usually better to use one of the side streets.
 
Browndown North also has a colony of Grayling (take first turn right once inside the gate to an area of heathery heath), however the butterflies emerge a few days later here than on Browndown South. Many common species can also be found including Common Blue and Small Heath. A visit to Browndown North during May is also worthwhile - Green Hairstreak can sometimes be found amongst the gorse, close to the track running north from the entrance.

Footnote: Access to Browndown South can also be made from the east (along the Solent Way long distance footpath) and is actually a slightly shorter route to the Grayling colony. However for the benefit of the unenlightened, this route passes beside a naturist section of beach.